Professional peels explained: lactic, glycolic, salicylic, mandelic and Jessner

Chemical peels once had a reputation for red, raw, peeling faces. Today’s professional peels are a very different experience. Most are gentle, comfortable and fit easily into a lunch break, while higher-strength options are there when your skin needs a bigger reset.

Whether you’re dealing with dullness, sensitivity, oiliness, fine lines or uneven tone, there’s likely a peel that suits. Here’s how they work, what’s on our menu and how to get the best results.

How professional peels work

Your skin is always shedding old cells from the surface. Sometimes that process slows down or becomes uneven, and dead cells build up. Skin can then look dull, feel rough, congest more easily and soak up skincare less effectively.

A peel uses carefully selected acids to loosen the bonds holding those dead cells in place, so they lift away more evenly. The result is skin that looks brighter and feels smoother. With a course of peels, they can also help with texture, uneven tone and congestion over time.

The acids used fall into a few families:

• Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), such as lactic, glycolic and mandelic acid, work on the skin’s surface to brighten and smooth.
• Beta hydroxy acid (BHA), which is salicylic acid, is oil-soluble, so it can work inside the pore. That makes it a favourite for oily and congested skin.
• Blended peels, like the Jessner, combine several ingredients for a more noticeable result.

Every peel on our menu, and who it suits

Our Peel Skin Treatment is $180 for 40 minutes. Your therapist will choose the peel after assessing your skin, but this guide shows how the options compare.

The first four are our everyday peels. They’re gentle enough to have regularly and usually come with little visible peeling. Mandelic and the two Jessner peels are higher-strength options, and you can expect some flaking for a few days afterwards.

If your main concern is oiliness and breakouts, read our guide to peels for oily and breakout-prone skin, or our acne concern page. For uneven tone and dark spots, see our sun damage and pigmentation page.

What to expect on the day

Your appointment starts with a chat about your skin, your routine and any medications you take. Your therapist then cleanses your skin and applies the chosen peel, watching closely as it works. Most people feel some warmth or tingling, which settles once the peel is neutralised or removed. Your treatment finishes with soothing products and sun protection.

After an everyday peel, skin usually looks fresh and glowing. After a higher-strength peel, your skin may feel tight at first and then flake for a few days as it renews. That’s a normal part of the process.

How to prepare for a peel

A little preparation helps your therapist choose the right peel and keeps your treatment comfortable:

• Tell us about medications. This is especially important if you take isotretinoin or other photosensitising medication.
• Mention retinoids and acids. If you use retinol, retinoids or exfoliating acids at home, let us know before your appointment.
• Let us know if you’re pregnant, so we can check your treatment is suitable.
• Arrive without heavy makeup if you can, to make cleansing quicker and gentler.

Not sure if a peel is right for you? Book a free 20-minute Advanced Skin Consultation and talk it through first.

Aftercare, including after higher-strength peels

Good aftercare protects your results and keeps your skin comfortable. After any peel:

• Skip makeup for 12 hours.
• Avoid heat, the gym and the sauna for 24 to 48 hours.
• Pause retinol and exfoliating acids for 3 to 5 days.
• Wear SPF 50+ every single day. Freshly peeled skin is more vulnerable to the sun.

After a Jessner or Mandelic peel, there are a few extra things to keep in mind. Let flaking skin shed naturally. Picking or peeling it off early can leave the skin underneath irritated or marked. Cleanse gently, keep skin well moisturised and stay out of the sun as much as you can.

Gentle, hydrating homecare from Australian Skin Institute can help skin feel comfortable while it renews. The Barrier Hydration Complex ($99), our skin reset serum, is a popular choice. Once your skin has settled and your therapist gives the go-ahead, products like the AHA Power Exfoliant ($59) help keep the glow going between appointments.

If you have sensitive or problem skin that needs something more tailored, our partner Tugun Compounding Pharmacy compounds personalised skincare scripted by its pharmacists. Request an order form and a pharmacist will contact you.

How often should you have a peel?

One peel leaves skin looking brighter, but the most noticeable changes in texture, tone and congestion come from a course. Your therapist will recommend a frequency based on your skin, the peel used and how it responds. For many clients, a professional treatment every month works well.

There are a few easy ways to make peels a regular part of your routine:

• Radiance Skin Treatment. Our everyday peels are one of the modalities your therapist can choose within a Radiance Skin Treatment ($180, 40 minutes), alongside options like LED and Hydro Jelly.
• Clarity & Refinement Program, $860 (valued at $1,080, so you save $220). Over 6 months you’ll have 2 x LED, 1 x Dermaplaning and 2 x Peels, plus an AHA Power Exfoliant to use at home. It’s designed for more visible correction.
• Skin Clubs. The Radiance Club is $135 a month for a monthly Radiance Skin Treatment (regular value $180, save 25%). The Renewal Club is $220 a month for a monthly Renewal Skin Treatment (regular value $275, save 20%), ideal for texture, pigmentation and ageing. Members get 20% to 25% off Australian Skin Institute and Tugun Compounding Pharmacy retail, plus a Welcome Pack and a one-time Bring-a-Friend voucher.

Skin Clubs have a 6-month minimum term, then continue month to month. Compare all your options on our memberships page. New clients can start with a Skin Discovery Treatment for $99 (usually $180) to find the right peel plan.

Ready to book? Book your peel online or visit one of our six Brisbane clinics.