Pigmentation and melasma: treatments that work, including Cosmelan

Dark spots, uneven patches and marks that linger long after a breakout has healed are some of the most common concerns we see in clinic. Living in sunny Brisbane doesn’t help. The good news is that pigmentation can often be improved with the right combination of professional treatments, consistent homecare and, above all, sun protection.

Here’s what causes pigmentation, the different types, and the treatments we use to help even out skin tone.

What causes pigmentation?

Your skin’s colour comes from melanin, a pigment made by cells called melanocytes. Melanin helps protect your skin from UV damage. Sometimes those cells produce more melanin in one area than another, leaving darker spots or patches. This is known as hyperpigmentation.

Triggers commonly include sun exposure, inflammation or injury to the skin, and hormonal changes. Heat can also play a part for some people. Because the causes differ, the right treatment depends on the type of pigmentation you have.

The main types of pigmentation

• Sun damage. Sun spots, freckles that have darkened over time and a generally uneven tone, often on the face, chest, shoulders and hands. These build up over years of UV exposure.
• Post-inflammatory pigmentation. Dark marks left behind after a pimple, irritation, a scratch or other skin injury. They can be more noticeable and longer lasting in darker skin tones, and picking at breakouts makes them more likely.
• Melasma. Larger, patchy areas of pigmentation, often across the cheeks, forehead or upper lip. Hormones, sun and heat are thought to play a part, and it can be stubborn. Melasma is usually managed over the long term rather than cleared once and forgotten.

Not sure which type you have? Your therapist can assess your skin and explain what’s going on. You’ll find more on our sun damage and pigmentation page.

Cosmelan: our most targeted pigmentation treatment

Cosmelan De-Pigmentation by mesoestetic ($1,250, 50 minutes) is our most intensive treatment for melasma, sun damage and stubborn pigmentation. It replaces the treatment some clients may remember as De-Pigmentation PRO.

Here’s how it works:

• Consultation first. A consultation is required before Cosmelan, so we can assess your skin and make sure it’s suitable for you.
• In clinic. Your therapist applies the Cosmelan mask.
• At home. You remove the mask at home, following the timing your therapist gives you.
• Maintenance. You’ll follow a homecare maintenance program afterwards to support and maintain your results.

Cosmelan is a commitment, and following the homecare program closely is a big part of getting the best outcome.

Other treatments for pigmentation

Cosmelan isn’t the only option. Depending on your skin, your therapist may recommend one or a combination of these:

• Jessner High Strength for Depigmentation. A higher-strength Jessner peel (salicylic acid, lactic acid and resorcinol) with added kojic acid, designed for uneven tone. Expect flaking for a few days.
• Mandelic peel (30% or 40%). Suits sensitive skin and darker skin tones, which makes it a considered choice where post-inflammatory marks are a concern.
• Skin Needling ($300, 60 minutes). Controlled micro-channels stimulate the skin’s repair, and your therapist can pair it with our professional Depigmentation Serum. Redness lasts a day or two, and a course gives the best results.
• Nano Infusion ($275, 50 minutes). A gentler alternative to needling with little to no downtime, which can also be paired with Depigmentation Serum.
• Micro Skin Treatment ($180, 40 minutes). Microdermabrasion buffs away dull surface cells to help brighten skin. You may be a little pink for a few hours.

Peels are part of our Peel Skin Treatment ($180, 40 minutes). For a closer look at every acid we use, read Professional peels explained.

Before any of these treatments, let us know if you’re pregnant, using retinoids or taking medication such as isotretinoin, as this affects what’s suitable.

Aftercare matters, because irritated or sunburnt skin can produce more pigment. After treatment, skip makeup for 12 hours (24 hours after needling), avoid heat, the gym and the sauna for 24 to 48 hours, and pause retinol and exfoliating acids for 3 to 5 days. Let any flaking shed on its own rather than picking at it.

Homecare: where results are kept

In-clinic treatments do the heavy lifting, but daily homecare protects your progress. Your therapist may recommend Australian Skin Institute products such as:

• Vitamin C Serum ($99), a morning favourite for a brighter-looking complexion.
• Vitamin B3 Complex ($89) to support a more even-looking tone.
• Vitamin A Corrector ($99) for evening use, as advised by your therapist.

And the most important step of all: a broad-spectrum SPF 50+ every single day, reapplied when you’re outdoors. Without daily sun protection, pigmentation can return, even after successful treatment. A wide-brimmed hat and shade help too.

For a more tailored approach, our partner Tugun Compounding Pharmacy compounds personalised skincare scripted by its pharmacists. Request an order form and a pharmacist will be in touch.

Be patient: pigmentation takes a course

Pigmentation builds up over time, and it fades over time too. One treatment rarely does it all. Most people see the best results from a course of treatments, consistent homecare and strict sun protection. Melasma in particular often needs ongoing care to keep it under control.

Two options make a course easier and better value:

• Rejuvenation & Firmness Program, $990 (valued at $1,240, so you save $250). Over 6 months it includes 2 x LED, 1 x Micro and 2 x Skin Needling, plus a Vitamin A Corrector to use at home. It’s designed for long-term corrective results.
• Renewal Club, $220 a month (regular value $275, save 20%). One Renewal Skin Treatment every month, combining a personalised modality with an advanced one such as nano infusion or skin needling. It’s our club for texture, pigmentation and ageing, and members get 25% off Australian Skin Institute and Tugun Compounding Pharmacy retail, which helps with your homecare too.

The Renewal Club has a 6-month minimum term, then continues month to month. Compare every option on our memberships page. If you’re new to us, a Skin Discovery Treatment ($99 for new clients, usually $180) or a free 20-minute Advanced Skin Consultation is a great place to start.

Ready to book? Book online or visit one of our six Brisbane clinics to talk about your pigmentation.